- About Me
- Collecting used model diecast vehicles
- Contact Us
- Diecast Restoration
- Tri-ang, Spot-On, fiat Multipla restoration
- Budgie Bedford TK’s
- Matchbox Lotus Europa born again
- Merlin A100, diecast jeep restoration
- Audi Quattro
- Commer ice cream van restoration
- Quick Fix #1
- Aston Martin DB7 refurbishment
- Corgi, Mercedes Pullman 600 renovation
- Removing Corgi diecast wheels
- Quick fix #2
- Removing Chrome from plastic parts
- Saico BMW repair
- Quick Fix #3
- Replacing, Matchbox Superfast axles
- Matchbox MG 1100 restoration
- Budgie, Motorway coach restoration
- Bburago, Prima Giugiaro, restoration
- Corgi Rover SD1, restoration
- Matchbox Daimlar ambulance restored
- Majorette Renault 4 restoration
- Matchbox K6 pick-up truck repair
- Diecast restoration tools & equipment
- Franklin Mint 1930 Duesenberg J Derham Tourster custom repaint
- Quick fix #4
- Corgi Ford Thunderbird, restoration
- Modellers paint stripping guide
- Quick Fix #5
- Recent diecast renovations & conversions
- Taking pictures & dioramas
- Customs and Conversions
- Tanzara Pickup
- VW trailer project
- Custom Dinky Hudson led sled
- Matchbox Faun Crane to Pickfords heavy mover conversion
- Husky, Ford F-series custom conversion
- Corgi Commer Karrier, with a twist
- Salvaged from scrap
- Corgi, Chevrolet Astro 1
- Corgi Ford Thames pick-up project
- Matchbox Faun crane to Maz 537 conversion
- Matchbox Dodge generator truck project
- Wargames vehicle projects
- Plastic & metal kits
- Scenery & buildings
- Trains and railway layouts
- Tri-ang Hornby track type history
- DCC wiring for model train beginners
- My model railway projects
- Triang low loader conversion
- Gn15 narrow gauge, model railway
- My model railway projects, buildings and scenery
- The layout
- Model railway, renovations and conversions
- Knightwing shunter projects
- Featured pages
- Scale figures & wargames
- Robo Gear
- Orc’s & Goblins
- Knights & Castles
- 1:21 scale, Eaglemoss, Doctor Who figures
- 1:32 and 1:35 scale figures
- Action figures
- Making stickers and decals
- A question of scale
- Pressed Steel toys, restoration and collecting
I have had many, many requests recently asking for more information on what I use to restore diecast cars and trucks, so this page is a short list of what you should have to start with.
Pillar drill/drill stand/drill press
Whatever you prefer to call it the most important piece of equipment is a pillar drill.
Most diecast models have at least one rivet holding it together, some have two or three or even six, in most cases by turning it upside down this will become obvious.
With this you can accurately drill out the rivets, add holes for emergency vehicle lights and loads of other uses you will find once you have one, I also use a rotary brass wire brush in my pillar drill for cleaning up and polishing the stripped casting.
Some good twist drills would also be in order from 1.5mm up to about 8mm, I have some I have taken the point off with a grinder to drill out shallow rivets such as those holding in glass units, the point will sometimes go though the casting if you not careful so I altered a few without a point for this job.
Stripping and cleaning
For stripping paint I use Caustic soda in a plastic container, bent welding rods to dip castings into the container and an old flour sieve to dip small parts.
For cleaning up I use old toothbrushes to remove the remains of any paint and for more stubborn stuff a brass brush.
Painting and spraying
I tend to use a lot of aerosols but slowly changing over to using a small touch up spray gun, I do have an airbrush but don’t really use it that much on diecast, I use it mainly for model railway re-paints where a matt finish is required.
I’ve tried many aerosols and the best to date are from either Halfords because they seem to have a finer spray pattern, or those from a model shop meant for models anyway.
Hand tools are generally smaller then normal such as small side cutters and radio pliers, small screwdrivers etc.
Two pack epoxy I couldn’t do without for re-fitting many of the models I do.
Parts such as axles will need considering if you are replacing them, tyres, and possibly rivets.
The method I use for rivets is once the baseplate has been drilled off, use a smaller drill of 2mm to drill down into the casting post where the rivet was attached, and using 2mm rivets glue with epoxy back into place, you can of course use screws to re-fit the base but on small models this can be unsightly.
This is just a basic ‘getting started’ list and tools and parts you may need become more apparent as time goes on.
Cleaning plastic glass units
This is one question I get asked a lot, most cars and trucks with glass need cleaning when restoring, I use a aero cockpit polish, it’s meant for real small light aircraft to polish out the fine scratches that occur with use and age, this works a treat on model glass, just Google aero cockpit polish, it may even be sold on Ebay.
As always any questions are always welcomed.