- About Me
- Collecting used model diecast vehicles
- Contact Us
- Diecast Restoration
- Tri-ang, Spot-On, fiat Multipla restoration
- Budgie Bedford TK’s
- Matchbox Lotus Europa born again
- Merlin A100, diecast jeep restoration
- Audi Quattro
- Commer ice cream van restoration
- Quick Fix #1
- Aston Martin DB7 refurbishment
- Corgi, Mercedes Pullman 600 renovation
- Removing Corgi diecast wheels
- Quick fix #2
- Removing Chrome from plastic parts
- Saico BMW repair
- Quick Fix #3
- Replacing, Matchbox Superfast axles
- Matchbox MG 1100 restoration
- Budgie, Motorway coach restoration
- Bburago, Prima Giugiaro, restoration
- Corgi Rover SD1, restoration
- Matchbox Daimlar ambulance restored
- Majorette Renault 4 restoration
- Matchbox K6 pick-up truck repair
- Diecast restoration tools & equipment
- Franklin Mint 1930 Duesenberg J Derham Tourster custom repaint
- Quick fix #4
- Corgi Ford Thunderbird, restoration
- Modellers paint stripping guide
- Quick Fix #5
- Recent diecast renovations & conversions
- Taking pictures & dioramas
- Customs and Conversions
- Tanzara Pickup
- VW trailer project
- Custom Dinky Hudson led sled
- Matchbox Faun Crane to Pickfords heavy mover conversion
- Husky, Ford F-series custom conversion
- Corgi Commer Karrier, with a twist
- Salvaged from scrap
- Corgi, Chevrolet Astro 1
- Corgi Ford Thames pick-up project
- Matchbox Faun crane to Maz 537 conversion
- Matchbox Dodge generator truck project
- Wargames vehicle projects
- Plastic & metal kits
- Scenery & buildings
- Trains and railway layouts
- Tri-ang Hornby track type history
- DCC wiring for model train beginners
- My model railway projects
- Triang low loader conversion
- Gn15 narrow gauge, model railway
- My model railway projects, buildings and scenery
- The layout #1
- Model railway, renovations and conversions
- Knightwing shunter projects
- Featured pages
- Scale figures & wargames
- Robo Gear
- Orc’s & Goblins
- Knights & Castles
- 1:21 scale, Eaglemoss, Doctor Who figures
- 1:32 and 1:35 scale figures
- Action figures
- Making stickers and decals
- A question of scale
- Pressed Steel toys, restoration and collecting
To see this article from the start go to Diorama #1, Part 1
The next thing to do is add bushes and shrubs to the scene.
For this I use ready coloured lichen, this can easily be obtained from most model shops or on Ebay and comes in many colours.
I fix this using a bead or dot of PVA, you can use Bostik or a similar clear glue but I prefer this way and it dries clear.
Once the bushes are done then it’s time to turn my attention to the trees.
You can buy these ready made but again I prefer to make my own, some people use wire to make their tree trunks and branches but I use real twigs for this.
A few things to bare in mind when doing it this way, firstly the shape of the tree will be whatever shape your twigs are just as in real life, only use woody stems or twigs as anything green will wither and die after it’s cut.
My first tree is a tall thin tree, I stand my tree in the vice and glue lichen to it with Bostik clear glue letting it dry before adding more, once your happy with the shape and density you can trim the lichen with scissors.
I drilled a suitable hole in the base board and fix into place.
The smaller tree on the right is done the same way with a different coloured lichen and shaped the twig differently.
With just a few details left to do such as adding doors to the barn and wiring the lights I can start adding cars, people and things like oil drums.
After painting the petrol pumps, I couldn’t resist setting up a few themed scenes and taking pictures.
Can also be used as a backdrop for larger scale cars and trucks.
Or for single vehicle photographs.
Anyway back to the work, I finally figured out how I am going to wire the yard lights and found some electrical glue on the internet, soldering the earth lead could melt the wire running down the centre of the lamp standard and don’t really want to take them apart.
Back in Part 1 of this article, I mounted the lights by drilling right through the base board and fixed the lights with about 1mm sticking out of the bottom
The light standards are made of copper so clean off any paint and applied some of the wire glue around the tube base.
Next a bright metal washer was placed over the tube and other coat of glue applied.
This glue can take a while to set so I glued the wire to the washer and taped it into place.
The second wire running up the tube was hot soldered as normal.
The wire under the base were taped down flat using duct tape and a hole drilled so the ends were above the board, now if I had decided to do light before I started this project, I could of cut grooves on the bottom but this board evolved as I went along rather than fully planned, notice also the stick on cork feet to keep the board up off the wires.
Finally the connections are brought together under one of the buildings, I have used an ordinary connector block as later I will be lighting the buildings with LED lights.
That’s about it, I put it all back together, added a few cars and turned out the lights for the night shot below.
I hope this inspires you to have a go yourself even if it’s a simple scene or diorama.
For more pictures done with this diorama Click Here