- About Me
- Collecting used model diecast vehicles
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- Diecast Restoration
- Tri-ang, Spot-On, fiat Multipla restoration
- Budgie Bedford TK’s
- Matchbox Lotus Europa born again
- Merlin A100, diecast jeep restoration
- Audi Quattro
- Commer ice cream van restoration
- Quick Fix #1
- Aston Martin DB7 refurbishment
- Corgi, Mercedes Pullman 600 renovation
- Removing Corgi diecast wheels
- Quick fix #2
- Removing Chrome from plastic parts
- Saico BMW repair
- Quick Fix #3
- Replacing, Matchbox Superfast axles
- Matchbox MG 1100 restoration
- Budgie, Motorway coach restoration
- Bburago, Prima Giugiaro, restoration
- Corgi Rover SD1, restoration
- Matchbox Daimlar ambulance restored
- Majorette Renault 4 restoration
- Matchbox K6 pick-up truck repair
- Diecast restoration tools & equipment
- Franklin Mint 1930 Duesenberg J Derham Tourster custom repaint
- Quick fix #4
- Corgi Ford Thunderbird, restoration
- Modellers paint stripping guide
- Quick Fix #5
- Recent diecast renovations & conversions
- Taking pictures & dioramas
- Customs and Conversions
- Tanzara Pickup
- VW trailer project
- Custom Dinky Hudson led sled
- Matchbox Faun Crane to Pickfords heavy mover conversion
- Husky, Ford F-series custom conversion
- Corgi Commer Karrier, with a twist
- Salvaged from scrap
- Corgi, Chevrolet Astro 1
- Corgi Ford Thames pick-up project
- Matchbox Faun crane to Maz 537 conversion
- Matchbox Dodge generator truck project
- Wargames vehicle projects
- Plastic & metal kits
- Scenery & buildings
- Trains and railway layouts
- Tri-ang Hornby track type history
- DCC wiring for model train beginners
- My model railway projects
- Triang low loader conversion
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- 1:21 scale, Eaglemoss, Doctor Who figures
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- A question of scale
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The techniques used in the following article are those generally used in full size model railways and can also be adapted for diecast vehicles.
The idea behind it was for my own locomotive collection and needed a backdrop for pictures, it started with me finding these two foam arches.
First, as you can see joining these will make an obvious joint so first they will need a bit of work
With a bit of care and a sharp craft knife I have cut out every other stone, it doesn’t line up perfectly but will be near enough.
They have been mounted on a 15mm thick backing board glued down with PVA and filled where required.
Next the painting.
Firstly I ‘blind out’ the area filled with any matt grey paint.
Then re-coat the whole thing in a few layers of different greys.
Next the base is fixed, the track laid and the ballast is started next, this is laid dry then soaked with a water spray, then a diluted PVA mix, what this does is fully glue down the ballast between and around the track.
Once the ballast is fully dry the track is weathered down to look more realistic, this is done with an airbrush.
Next static grass is added, this is a fine fibre added with a puffer bottle, PVA is applied where I want grass, the remainder will be vacuumed off when glue is fully dry.
Extra detail such as the rusty rails have been added at this point too.
Finally the result
This only took a couple of hours spaced over 2 to 3 weeks, mainly drying time.
On reflection, next time the joint between the two arch pieces would be reduced to match the spacing between the other arches, even I learn with everything I do.