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- Collecting used model diecast vehicles
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- Diecast Restoration
- Tri-ang, Spot-On, fiat Multipla restoration
- Budgie Bedford TK’s
- Matchbox Lotus Europa born again
- Merlin A100, diecast jeep restoration
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- Quick Fix #1
- Aston Martin DB7 refurbishment
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- Quick fix #2
- Removing Chrome from plastic parts
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- Replacing, Matchbox Superfast axles
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After acquiring a couple of Airfix engine sheds, I decided to build a shed two units wide by two units long
A trail set up tells me it can be done although not a straight forward build.
As I only had two I bought two more Dapol issues, made from the same tooling as the Airfix kits.
The kit doesn’t allow for this, but does give you extra parts to build a two unit wide OR two unit long.
The way you make a two unit long shed means you have to use the opening door at both end, this is because of one end being chamfered and the other which joins the second wall unit is square, I don,t want that so I can fit the back walls I need to remove the chamfer from one end.
This I did with a fine craft saw.
Next is gluing up the sides, you can see the diffence in colour from the darker Airfix parts and the lighter Dapol kits, the reason they are mixed is I picked the best sections from all the kits.
Once the side and ends are glued I sanded all the joints, they are not the best fit, especially the joining pieces for the front and back walls so this is best done now while still flat.
Building the main walls is no issue.
The big issue is supporting the roof, the girder frames meant for a two unit long shed has nowhere to land on the inner side, also the walls are a bit flimsy at this stage and hard to keep square.
To resolve the roof support I have used the builders answer and stuck in a big H steel beam, these are plastic strut scale beams, I have also cut a piece of 3mm MDF to keep the structure square while doing this.
Here is the steelwork completed, and also has vertical beam back and front.
Next I can start fitting the roof sections, again they are glued length ways before fitting.
Main structure complete
Next is the inside, this may seem pointless but I like the idea that looking inside the shed will look as good as the outside, plus it will be lit.
The inside starts by lining the moulding’s where they would of been built out.
A wall section is shown here this would be flat on the inside in a real building.
This is done by using a good card, first the lower wall are padded out, and here you can see I have started the second layer between the windows, next the bottom is done on the second layer , this now gives me a flat surface to work with.
The ends are treated much the same where required.
The brick embossed plastic card comes in sheets about the size of a sheet of A4 paper and quite thin so easy to cut, but make sure you are using a sharp craft knife, a slightly dull blade and it will wander everywhere.
Once glued and checked for flat contact, allow to dry, the rest of the walls are treated the same.
Once done on both sides and the back, the windows are fitted.
On one side, the last window has been ‘bricked up’ not unusual in rebuilt industrial buildings, which is what this shed will represent.
Next I want to get as much done inside before I fit the outside lighting or the painting, this means I can do the inside without the worry of breaking bits off on the outside.
The inside lights are 4 LED strips in warm white, these are wired together and bonded in the roof and down the inside front corners, the inside of the roof has had a few coats of grey paint and has all the joints sealed, this is to prevent any light bleeding from where you don’t want it..
The wires are bonded with epoxy resin.
Then the test, the wires go down through the base board and wired up to check operation.
Further to the lighting test the inside walls are now painted, note the classic two tone paint, this was a common practice in many industrial buildings and in some places, still done.