- About Me
- Collecting used model diecast vehicles
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- Diecast Restoration
- Tri-ang, Spot-On, fiat Multipla restoration
- Budgie Bedford TK’s
- Matchbox Lotus Europa born again
- Merlin A100, diecast jeep restoration
- Audi Quattro
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- Quick Fix #1
- Aston Martin DB7 refurbishment
- Corgi, Mercedes Pullman 600 renovation
- Removing Corgi diecast wheels
- Quick fix #2
- Removing Chrome from plastic parts
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- Replacing, Matchbox Superfast axles
- Matchbox MG 1100 restoration
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- Salvaged from scrap
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The Triang diesel dock shunter is one of those I had back in the early 1970′s and over the last year or so have acquired a few, most were well used or non-runners.
Recently I acquired another, much later issue with smooth drive wheels and boxed, so this one is part of the Triang collection.
Two of the others I inspected also had smooth drive wheels, most of the older one’s have serrated (grooved) driving wheels, and can be a problem running on newer track.
One of the biggest problems with these plastic bodies is the front and rear ladders get broken in use, in the case of my two, one had a broken ladder the other had a crack in the bonnet so neither worth selling, as it was both run well after a wheel clean.
My eye is always creating something different and the Dock shunter was no exception, and an idea started to form in my head, what if I made a longer dock shunter using an 0-6-0 Hornby chassis?
The idea didn’t go away instead a few weeks later I took a razor saw to the two bodies.
The first body, the black one, had just the nose cut off as it has a damaged front ladders and cracked buffer beam and was the best of the two bodies.
Next fitting in the right place on the chassis took a while to work out, the chassis is from a later Hornby Jinty and has been reversed, a channel was cut in the inside of the body to slot down on the chassis, this also gave a clear cab.
The second body was cut to fit the chassis length, this one had already had the front buffer beam cut short and has also lost the bottom step, but next to getting another body this will do, then I created a mock up to see if it looked ok and level.
One of the chassis have since been used for another project and can be seen here
Once happy with the alignment, the two body parts were fixed together using plasticard inside the sides and top, and a bit of filling and fettling between the two bodies, the original moulded handrails have been filed off and drilled ready for new hand rails and supports, I decided to add an exhaust stack where the old dock shunter mounting hole was from a spare piece of tube and moved the air horn forward, the cab handrails yet to be removed but have the shape I want, yet to choose a colour, unbelievably they do flush glazing for this model so have just ordered a few sets.
A coat of primer to see any faults then the bonnet side handrails can be put in place and cut, the cab side moulded handrails have been removed along with the moulded buffer beam coupling points seen on the front above.
The chassis of the dock shunter won’t go to waste either.
Drilling for new brass wire handrails below, I decided to add one at the front too.
Just the linkage hooks to fit, a few tweaks and ready for painting
The colour I’ve chosen is a pale yellow, to give the effect of a faded yellow paintwork, lots more to do yet though.
Note the coupling hooks have been fitted although only for show.
Some basic colour added next, I’m not to worried about it being perfect as this will be rusted and weathered.
The grill has also been painted black as rather than remove the grill I am putting a wire overlay on it.
Next some hand painted rusting, the grill has been sprayed yellow and fitted prior to doing this.
Then weathered down, we are now nearing completion. glazing next and work out a cab interior and couplings.
The chassis had also been weathered down along with the coupling rods painted red and weathered.
Beginning to look like a well used shunter.
More to come soon